Troll Impaler Start-To-Finish
I've had this model lying around forever, and found the time and energy to go ahead and paint him up. He's a "Troll Impaler", from Privateer Press' "Hordes" game line. Here's the finished pic; scroll down if you want to see the step-by-step process. Feedback welcomed.
Here's the starting point. He's got a light coating of spray paint on him from being next to a previous model, but none of it is part of the final model.
Starting in here with some of the larger areas on the model. I didn't write down the exact paints used, but they're from the Master Series and Game Color series. I'll try to capture the exact colors used next time.
Did the underlying fabric on this pass. We're going to wind up going for a pretty dark green, but I like to start with the lighter color and then wash in the deeper colors rather than the reverse.
Basically done with the initial coat of paint. Most areas of the model at this point have some color on them, so you can start to see what the final result can/should be.
Back view of the same phase. Still need some detail work on the leather strapping for the quiver.
Detail work on the quiver here. It looks sloppy, but that's because I watered the brown down a lot. When it dries, it tends to wick into the crevices and deposit the paint there. Saves me the trouble of trying to paint the sides of those tiny straps.
Initial pass at the skin wash. I took a dark orange, watered it way down, and basically gooped it in big puddles over the model's exposed skin. As it dries, it tends to pool in the crevasses, which provides a feeling of depth and detail when looking at the model.
We've done a similar thing here for the green on his shirt. The darker green pools in the low points and serves to provide a sensation of lighting on the fabric.
Here we've dipped the model. I use QuickShade from the Army Painter line. Really accentuates the detail, in my opinion. Leaves the model a little shiny, but we'll take care of that in the next step.
Final result. The quickshade makes the details pop, and the anti-matte shine (which I've been using as a photographic base) knocks down the shininess to more realistic levels.